Even though it's still technically summer for a few weeks longer, the unseasonally cool weather we've been enjoying here in Virginia has brought on a craving for the richer flavors of autumn.
One of the loveliest of those flavors is that classic Mediterranean combination for roasted and pot-roasted meat and poultry: garlic, rosemary, and white wine. It really knows no season, but especially when it's mated with pork, it becomes the very essence of fall and is one of the best ways I know to welcome the season.
My favorite way of pairing pork with those flavors is to coat a whole loin with salt, pepper, garlic, and fresh rosemary, then slowly oven-braise it in the wine until it's fork tender.
Unfortunately, it's something I only make when we have company, because it really has to be done with a larger cut, and that's just not practical for only two people. A single tenderloin, on the other hand, is just right for two. And while that cut is the pig's equivalent of a boneless, skinless chicken breast and not the most flavorful meat on the animal, cooking it with those classic seasonings really brings out its best.
Best of all, as its bewitching aroma filled the house this week, it brought a welcome promise of fall to the air and comforted better than a favorite old sweater on a frosty evening.
Pork Tenderloin with Garlic, Rosemary, and White Wine
As we've gotten older, we usually get two meals out of a single tenderloin, but how many it will serve at your table will depend on the weight of the tenderloin and the appetites of those who'll share it. Our usual accompaniment is thin spaghetti sauced with a little of the pan gravy, as Italians would put it, "al sugo di arrosto."
Serves 3-4
1 pork tenderloin
Salt and whole black pepper in a mill
About 1 rounded tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary (do not use dried)
1 large clove garlic, lightly crushed, peeled, and chopped fine
Extra virgin olive oil
Dry white wine or extra-dry white vermouth
1. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat it to 375° F. Trim the tenderloin: remove the outer membrane and any excess fat, then peel off the silver skin with a sharp paring or tourné (curved fluting) knife. Fold the narrow tapered end over itself so that it is roughly the same thickness as the rest of the meat and securely tie it with kitchen twine. Season with salt and pepper on all sides. Mix together the rosemary and garlic and press evenly into the meat.
2. Warm a 10-inch seasoned cast iron skillet or braising pan over medium heat for 3-4 minutes. Film the bottom with olive oil and put in the tenderloin. Brown it lightly on all sides (about 1½-to-2 minutes per side). Carefully scoop out any loose bits of garlic that start to get too brown.
3. Add enough wine to the pan to come halfway up the sides of the meat, let it come to a boil, and turn off the heat. Transfer the pan to the oven and bake until it's done to your liking, about 15-20 minutes for medium, 25 for medium well. Remove the pan from the oven and transfer the meat to a warm plate or platter, cover it, and let it rest for at least 10 minutes.
4. Return the pan to direct medium-high heat. Bring the liquid to a boil and cook, occasionally stirring and scraping up any cooking residue that may be stuck to the bottom of the pan, until it is reduced and lightly thickened. Add any juice that may be accumulated in the plate holding the meat, give it a stir, and turn off the heat. Pour the sauce into a warmed bowl or gravy boat. Thinly slice the tenderloin on the diagonal, arrange it on the plate, drizzle with a little of the sauce, and serve with the remaining sauce passed separately.