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Recipes and Stories

27 November 2022: Mastering Thanksgiving Dinner X—Turkey Soup

Turkey and Pasta Soup


Of all the turkey leftovers that we enjoy in the days following Thanksgiving, the one I most look forward to is soup. All of them have their charms: sliced and piled into sandwiches; creamed and ladled over dressing; mixed with rice; molded into croquettes, and of course diced and folded into casseroles like tetrazzini. But none of those can quite equal the soothing, soul-nourishing comfort of a bowl of fragrant  Read More 

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26 November 2022: Mastering Thanksgiving Dinner IX—Making the Most of the Leftovers

The Post-Thanksgiving Stockpot, ready to simmer and turn the leftover turkey carcass into liquid gold


Two of my favorite things about cooking Thanksgiving dinner are the broth pots that begin and end it. Not only does that wonderful aroma fill the house twice, that second batch of broth squeezes out every ounce of goodness the bird had to offer, and extends the holiday feasting into the weekend and beyond.


By Thanksgiving night, since we had a small bird and a large crowd, Read More 

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24 November 2022: Mastering Thanksgiving VIII—The Gravy

Turkey Pan Gravy, here thickened with a roux made from flour and the turkey fat


It's none of my business what kind of gravy you serve today. Whether you add wine, include the giblets and add chopped boiled eggs, or thicken it with a roux or butter is up to you. But here's how to make that gravy silky-smooth and delicious. Read More 

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20 November 2022: Mastering Thanksgiving Dinner III Cranberry-Orange Preserves and Relish

Cranberry Orange Preserves


In her memoire, Amarcord, the late Italian cooking maven Marcella Hazan humorously related her first encounter with one of our country's most enduring Thanksgiving traditions, that of accompanying the turkey with a tart-sweet condiment made from cranberries.


Thinking the sauce that her host had solicitously spooned over her turkey was akin to peperonata (a savory sauce of red peppers and caramelized onions), her first bite was such a shock that it took all her self-control to keep from spitting it out.


Eventually, Signora Hazan was able to embrace the sweet tomato ketchup that was persistently slathered on her hamburgers, but never made her peace with cranberry sauce. I couldn't blame her: Read More 

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15 November 2022: Mastering Thanksgiving Dinner I

There's always Roast Turkey at my house, but if you hate the big bird, there's no law saying you have to have it.


Thanksgiving may be a little over a week away, but it's not too early to start planning. In fact, if you haven't already started doing that, you're a little late—but not dangerously so.


Big holiday dinners don't have to be complicated, but we're easing out of a pandemic and even seasoned cooks are a little out of practice. As for you who are unseasoned, if the closest you've ever come to turkey in your kitchen is the deli-sliced variety in a sandwich, you really do need a plan—and help, so don't be shy about asking for it.


To that end, over the next week leading up to Thanksgiving, I'm resurrecting Mastering Thanksgiving, the series Read More 

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