Last week we finally finished taking down our Christmas tree and put the season away for another year. In a world that has gone completely—and dishearteningly—insane and surreal, it was hard to let go of at least an appearance of winter holiday joy.
Back-to-back snow storms, ice, and lingering cold have likewise made us reluctant to let go of those hefty mid-winter comforts from the kitchen.
But there are mirrors in this house, and they're telling me it's time to rein in the celebrating at the
table. My aging joints and muscles are also weighing in: if it can be simpler, quicker, and will minimize the clean-up time in the kitchen, they're all for it.
Meanwhile, that need to be comforted in these surreal times has not diminished.
One of the things that answers all of those demands at once is that exquisitely simple French classic, leek and potato soup. The formula is basic and also one of the most versatile in all of cooking. Leave it chunky and it's pure rustic comfort, puree it and the comfort turns suave and elegant. Served hot, it comforts in January, served chilled, it comforts in July.
Perhaps the best and most versatile thing about the basic formula is the leeks: The magic they bring to the pot works on more than potatoes. Simply exchange some or all of the latter for another vegetable, such as I've been doing this winter with butternut squash, and the character of that comfort completely changes.
Butternut Squash and Leek Puree
Like most simple things, a large part of success with this recipe lies in the quality of its ingredients. There's nothing to cover up the deficiencies of leeks that are past their prime or old, lackluster squash.
Six to eight servings may seem like a lot to make for two people, but we never tire of this soup, and having leftovers of it in the back of the refrigerator is one of its best comforts.
Serves 6 as a main dish or about 8 as a soup course
1 large yellow onion, split lengthwise, trimmed, peeled, and thinly sliced
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 large leeks
1 large (about 2 pounds) butternut squash
Salt and whole white pepper in a mill
1-2 teaspoons raw (turbinado) sugar, optional
Buttered Croutons, crisp butter-toasted bread, Cornbread sticks, or a crusty baguette
1. Put the onion and butter in a 3½-4-quart heavy-bottomed saucepan over low heat. Lightly sprinkle in a pinch or so of salt, cover, and sweat gently until they're wilted, but not colored.
2. Meanwhile, prepare the leeks as follows: Take off any dry, discolored outer layers and trim off the dark green leaves and roots. Lay each one on a cutting board and starting at the root end with a sharp knife held parallel to the board, cut it horizontally in half. Holding each half root-end-up under cold running water, bend back the layers and wash away any dirt and grit. Drain them well and thinly slice them crosswise.
3. Add the leeks to the onion, cover, and sweat until they're wilted and softened but not in the least colored, about 8-10 minutes. Check the pot and give its contents a stir every now and then to make sure the vegetables don't color or scorch.
4. While the leeks and onions sweat, peel the squash with a vegetable peeler (a y-shaped one works best for this job), getting all the way through to the darker orange flesh. Lay it flat on a cutting board. Cut off the stem and blossom ends, then right at the point that the fat body of the squash meets with the neck, pierce all the way through it with a sharp cook's knife. Remove the knife, then cut the neck of the squash from the fat body at the pierced spot. Lay the body flat and cut it in half. Scoop out and discard the seeds and thickly slice the flesh. Carefully cut the neck in half and then slice each half crosswise. Add the cut squash to the pot with the leeks and onions.
5. Add enough water to completely cover the squash by half an inch, add a large pinch of salt and a liberal grinding of pepper, raise the heat to medium high, and bring it to a boil. Adjust the heat to a steady simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, until the squash is very tender, about 12-15 minutes. Taste and if needed, add a teaspoon or so of raw sugar, not to make it sweet, but to bring up the flavor in the squash. Remove it from the heat and let it cool for 5-10 minutes. Puree the soup in batches in a blender or with a hand-held stick blender until it is quite smooth. Taste and adjust the salt, pepper, and, if needed raw sugar. It can be made a day ahead: let it cool completely, cover, and refrigerate until half an hour before you're ready to serve it.
6. To serve, gently reheat it over medium low heat, stirring occasionally, until it's hot through. Taste and adjust the seasonings, give it one last stir, and ladle it into warm bowls. Garnish with a sprinkling of white pepper and serve hot with croutons, toast, cornsticks, or warm baguette.