Recipes and Stories

29 September 2018: Michaelmas and Mushrooms

September 29, 2018

Tags: Classic Southern Cooking, Mushrooms, Stewed Mushrooms, Mary Randolph, Lettice Bryan, Annabella Hill, The Virginia House-wife, The Kentucky Housewife, Mrs. Hill's New Cook Book

Mary Randolph's Stewed Mushrooms
Though autumn officially began a week ago and won’t really be felt here in Savannah for weeks to come, for me September 29, the Feast of St. Michael and All Angels (commonly called Michaelmas) is the real beginning of the season, which happens to be of my favorite of the entire year.

Aside from roasted goose in parts of England, there’s not a lot of food that’s connected with Michaelmas. But among the flavors that speak of autumn for me are mushrooms: in soup, sauce, over pasta, rolled in an omelette, or just on their own, sautéed in butter or, as the early nineteenth century doyenne of Southern cooking, Mary Randolph, directed, stewed in their own juices: (more…)