Recipes and Stories

12 January 2018: In Defense of Southern Cooking, Part I

January 12, 2018

Tags: Classic Southern Cooking, Classic American Cooking, Collards, Techniques and Flavors of Classic Southern Cooking, Classical Southern Cooking

Fresh Collard Greens
One day around the new year, when pots of collards and field peas were simmering away in so many Southern kitchens, a discussion arose among some of my colleagues about the frequency with which collards seemed to be turning up on so many so-called “new” Southern restaurant menus, and of how these greens were mostly being used and presented in ways that had nothing to do with Southern cooking.

The nicest thing one could say of most of these misbegotten things is that they’re bewildering. (more…)

3 January 2013: Winter Greens

January 3, 2013

Tags: Classical Southern Cooking, Historical Southern Cooking, Collards, Winter Greens

Collard greens, judiciously seasoned with lightly caramelized onion, garlic, and ham should not be limited solely to one day of the year.
One of the most satisfying, calming rituals of the new year in a Southern kitchen is the cleaning, prepping, and cooking of that obligatory mess of collard greens. For me, this ritual is almost as satisfying as eating them. (more…)