Recipes and Stories

24 February 2015: Pineapple Charlotte

February 24, 2015

Tags: Pineapples, Pineapple Charlotte, Harriet Ross Colquitt, Historical Southern Cooking, Classic Southern Cooking

A Savannah Pineapple Charlotte, photographed by John Carrington for The Savannah Cookbook
My mother got a pineapple for Christmas. Even though canned pineapple and refrigerated shipping have made this fruit fairly commonplace these days, for Mama—and for us—that pineapple, with its prickly, tufted skin and vibrant crown of sword-like leaves still had an air of the exotic about it.

There was a time in my mother’s living memory when a fresh pineapple was a special treat and she has never let us take them for granted. (more…)

20 February 2015: Broccoli in the Cold Season

February 20, 2015

Tags: Broccoli, Classical Southern Cooking, Beans Greens & Sweet Georgia Peaches, Classic Southern Cooking, Camille Glenn

Broccoli Gratin, broccoli casserole as it was meant to be.
When I began working on my first book, Classical Southern Cooking, broccoli wasn’t thought of as an especially Southern vegetable. But what I found as I delved into the kitchens of our past was a different story. Broccoli had been growing in the South at least since the eighteenth century, and was included in all the old Southern cookbooks, beginning as early as Mary Randolph’s iconic Virginia House-wife in 1824 right through to Mrs. Dull in the twentieth century. (more…)

14 February 2015: An Historical Romance

February 14, 2015

Tags: Blanc Manger, Blancmange, Thomas Jefferson, Monticello, Romance in the Dining Room, Historical Cooking, Historical Southern Cooking

Blanc Manger (or blancmange) for two makes a lovely end for an amorous dinner for two
Why we set aside just one day to commemorate romance (and inadvertently bludgeon those who don’t have any in their lives), I do not know. But since we do, and many a lover will be trying to win (or at least please) the heart they crave by way of the stomach, here are a few thoughts on romance at the table on the Feast of St. Valentine. (more…)

10 February 2015: The Universal Cutlet

February 10, 2015

Tags: Cutlets, Breaded Cutlets, Classic Southern Cooking, Classic Italian Cooking, Pork Tenderloin Cutlets

Breaded Cutlets made with Pork Tenderloin. Photography by John Carrington Photography
One of the great universal concepts in Western cookery is the breaded cutlet: a thin slice of meat, beaten thin both to make it uniform and to tenderize it, coated with dry bread crumbs, and fried to a delicate brown. Crackling crisp on the outside, tender and juicy inside, it’s arguably one of the most satisfying ways of giving flavor and panache to cheap and bland cuts of meat or poultry. (more…)